Alpinism in Peru
Alpamayo, at 5947 m, is an icon of the mountaineering world. Its perfect pyramidal shape means that this mountain is considered “the most beautiful on Earth”. To climb Alpamayo requires much experience in alpine climbing, due to its steep ice and rock corridors which can reach between 55 and 80 degrees. Here, we must use ice axes and screws to protect the ascent.
The route will be chosen according to the previous experience and physical condition of each mountaineer. In order to climb this mountain we recommend a full acclimatization and several previous climbs to deepen your knowledge and to achieve optimal alpine fitness. Contact us for more information; we can also suggest training climbs.
Artesonraju belongs to the Santa Cruz massif; it’s a climb that requires great experience and the ability to accurately read the mountain in order to avoid areas of surface snow as well as avalanches. Our guides have the experience and the expertise necessary to take on a challenge of this magnitude. The base camp is located at 5100 m.a.s.l. and the approach is a spectacular route among peaks such as La Pirámide, Chacraraju, Huandoy and Pisco.
Entering by Lake Parón, we will make two camps before reaching the high camp where we find ourselves face to face with a snow slope of between 50 and 60 degrees. Climbing this slope to the summit, which represents 900 m of ascent, can take over 12 hours there and back, and requires the use of ice screws, axes and pegs. We highly recommend climbing several other peaks to consolidate your technical knowledge before attempting Artesonraju, as well as undergoing a process of complete acclimatization.
At 6354 m.a.s.l. Chopicalqui is one of the highest mountains of the Cordillera Blanca; the summit offers one of the best views of the entire range, thanks to its proximity to Huascarán, Pisco, Huandoy, Artesonraju and Copa. The classic route is a mid-level technical climb but demanding in physical terms; it is necessary to make camp between 5300 and 5600 m.
The approach to this mountain is relatively easy due to its location in the Llanganuco valley which can be accessed by road. It is common to ascend Chopicalqui after the nearby Pisco for acclimatization, made easier by their shared start point in the aforementioned valley. Contact us for more information about this stunning climb.
El Escudo del Huascarán
The “shield” is a 400 m sheet of ice and snow with a slope that varies between 55 and 65 degrees, leading out of a high camp at 5600 m.a.s.l.. Once we have passed this ice sheet, it will be time to attack the summit and then descend via the normal route, conditions permitting. If the normal route is not safe to use, we will return via the ice sheet to camp. This is a route that requires a high level of climbing skill and previous experience of using mountaineering equipment, such as ice screws and Abalakov threads, as well as knowledge of ice and snow climbing techniques.
To climb this route, even those with previous alpine experience must undergo a process of acclimatisation and physical training, along with exercises to ensure your understanding of technical concepts and to consolidate your relationship with your guide. We can provide you with ideas of climbs to complete before taking on the mighty Huascarán.
Huascarán North and South
With its southern peak reaching 6768 m and its northern one at 6655 m, Huascarán is the highest mountain of the Cordillera Blanca range and a real challenge for those who wish to become part of the world of alpinism. The level of difficulty is high; although this is not due to technical stages of an advanced level, but in fact the altitude, which requires an excellent acclimatisation and several lower level ascents before attempting this mighty peak.
The traditional route to the southern summit shares the same base camp as the northern summit route, therefore if the conditions do not allow an ascent of the southern peak, our Plan B is to attempt to climb its northern sister. Contact us for more information or suggestions of acclimatisation climbs to prepare for Huascarán.
Climbing Tocllaraju is taking on a 6034 m mountain including two technical sections close to the summit with a slope of 65 to 75 degrees. This mountain offers the perfect opportunity to test yourself on slopes no longer than 100 m with an inclination of around 65 degrees before facing harder or more technical ascents. Located at the end of Ishinca valley it is usually climbed along with its neighbours - Urus and Ishinca - for acclimatization and physical conditioning.
We will make camp at 5100 m.a.s.l. and from there we will begin our ascent of the glacier, climbing almost 1000 m in one day.
Urus and Ishinca
Urus (5430 m) and Ishinca (5530 m) are perfect snow peaks for beginners to tackle, or those who wish to increase their experience climbing non-technical mountains with large glaciers. The approach is a one day hike through the Ishinca valley passing deep blue rivers and high elevation native forest (Quenual forest). At the end of the valley we come upon the magnificent Tocllaraju (6035 m); Urus and Ishinca provide the perfect acclimatization climbs before attempting the ascent of this snowy giant.
The itineraries can vary, depending on if you wish to climb one or both mountains, but by someone with average physical fitness the two can be climbed in no more than three days. Contact us to put together your ideal itinerary!
Due to its proximity to the city of Huaraz, its easy access and its relatively low level of physical demand, Vallunaraju is one of the most visited mountains in the Ancash region. From the city, it can be climbed in as little as one day, which makes it a perfect mountain to climb to prepare for harder ascents. It also affords us an astonishing view of Ranrapalca and the mountain range bordering the Llaca valley.
We camp the night before at around 4500 m.a.s.l. before setting off on this amazing adventure. Prior to attempting this climb, we recommend that you acclimatize by participating in hikes and treks at over 4000 m. Around Huaraz there are many options for day hikes and longer expeditions suitable for acclimatization; contact us for further information.
Vicos y Copa
Copa is a suitable mountain for those who want to reach 6000 m for the first time; many consider it to be the easiest six-thousander of Cordillera Blanca. However, its 6188 m still demand an optimum acclimatization, so beforehand we will attempt Vicos (5400 m) to prepare for the 6000 m climb.
Those who prefer a steeper ascent when it comes to climbing a 5000-er will be at home on Yanapacha, which offers the perfect route without the need for an advanced technical level. At 5460 m, this ascent includes slopes of between 40 and 65 degrees close to the summit. It is accessed via the same road as Pisco, which is a higher peak, but with a less dramatic incline and therefore a less demanding climb.
We will make camp in the moraine at approximately 5000 m.a.s.l. from where we will begin our ascent in the early hours of the morning. For this climb, we recommend you undertake several acclimatisation hikes above 4000 m beforehand. Contact us for further information.
En desarrollo de lo dispuesto en el artículo 17 de la Ley 679 de 2001, la agencia advierte al turista que la explotación y el abuso sexual de menores de edad en el país son sancionados penal y administrativamente, conforme a las leyes vigentes.